Iduka ry’imigati rya San Jose ryahinduye izina ry’ibiryo byaryo byo guteka “mochi cake” nyuma y’uko Third Culture Bakery isabye CA Bakehouse kureka gukoresha ijambo “mochi muffin.”
CA Bakehouse, ikigo gito cy’imigati gikorera mu muryango i San Jose, cyari kimaze imyaka igera kuri ibiri gicuruza mochi muffins ubwo ibaruwa yo guhagarika no guhagarika inzoga yageraga.
Ibaruwa ya Berkeley's Third Culture Bakery isaba CA Bakehouse guhagarika gukoresha ijambo "mochi muffin" bitabaye ibyo igakurikiranwa mu nkiko. Third Culture yanditse iri jambo nk'ikirango cy'ubucuruzi mu 2018.
Kevin Lam, nyiri CA Bakehouse, yatunguwe no kuba atari mu kaga gusa, ahubwo ko ijambo nk'iryo risanzwe - risobanura utuntu duto two mu muceri duto twometse mu gikombe cy'umugati - rishobora kwitirirwa ikirango cy'ubucuruzi.
“Ni nko gushyira mu kimenyetso imigati isanzwe cyangwa amafi yo mu bitoki,” Lam yagize ati. “Turi gutangira, turi ubucuruzi bw’umuryango buto ugereranije nabo. Ikibabaje ni uko twahinduye izina.”
Kuva Third Culture yahabwa ikirango cya leta kubera ibicuruzwa byayo by’akataraboneka, inganda zikora imigati zakomeje gukora bucece kugira ngo zihagarike resitora, abakora imigati n’abanditsi ba blog b’ibiribwa hirya no hino mu gihugu gukoresha ijambo mochi muffins. Iduka rya ramen ryo muri Auckland ryakiriye ibaruwa yo guhagarika no guhagarika ibikorwa bya Third Culture mu myaka mike ishize, nk’uko byatangajwe na nyiri ubucuruzi Sam White. Hari kandi n’ibigo byinshi byakiriye amabaruwa yo muri Third Culture muri Mata, harimo n’ubucuruzi buto bwo guteka mu rugo i Worcester, muri Massachusetts.
Hafi ya buri wese wavuganye n’abamubajije yahise yumvira kandi ahindura ikirango cy’ibicuruzwa bye — urugero nka CA Bakehouse ubu igurisha “keke za mochi,” — itinya kugongana n’isosiyete nini kandi ifite ubushobozi buhagije igurisha muffin za mochi mu gihugu hose. Isosiyete yatangije intambara y’ikirango.
Bitera kwibaza niba hari ushobora gutunga ibiryo byo guteka, ikiganiro kirekire kandi gishyushye mu isi y’amaresitora n’amafunguro.
Inzu y’ubukorikori ya CA i San Jose yahinduye Mochi Muffins nyuma yo kubona ibaruwa yo guhagarika no guhagarika ubukorikori ivuye muri Third Culture Bakery.
Wenter Shyu, umwe mu ba nyiri Third Culture, yavuze ko yamenye hakiri kare ko iyi minekeri igomba kurinda ibicuruzwa byayo bya mbere kandi bikunzwe cyane. Ubu Third Culture ikoresha abanyamategeko kugira ngo bagenzure ibicuruzwa by’ubucuruzi.
Yagize ati: “Ntabwo tugerageza kwitwaza ko ijambo mochi, mochiko cyangwa muffin ari iryacu.” Ni ikintu kimwe cyatangije imigati yacu kikatugira icyamamare. Uko ni ko twishyura fagitire zacu kandi tugahemba abakozi bacu. Iyo undi muntu akoze muffin ya mochi isa n’iyacu kandi (akaba) ayigurisha, ni cyo dushaka.”
Benshi mu bakora imigati n'abanditsi b'amagabuzi banditse kuri iyi nkuru banze kuvuga ku mugaragaro, batinya ko kubikora bishobora gutuma habaho ikirego mu nkiko gishingiye ku muco wa gatatu. Nyiri ubucuruzi wo muri Bay Area ucuruza mochi muffins yavuze ko amaze imyaka myinshi yiteze ibaruwa afite ubwoba. Ubwo ikigo cy'imigati cya San Diego cyageragezaga kwisubiraho mu 2019, Third Culture yareze nyiri ikigo kubera kutubahiriza ikirango cy'ubucuruzi.
Ubwo inkuru z'ibaruwa iheruka yo guhagarika no guhagarika ibikorwa bya gisirikare zakwirakwiraga mu batetsi b'imigati nk'urusobe rw'amafunguro y'umusemburo, uburakari bwatangiye mu itsinda rya Facebook ryitwa Subtle Asian Baking rigizwe n'abanyamuryango 145.000. Benshi mu banyamuryango baryo ni abatetsi n'abanditsi b'amagaju bafite resept zabo bwite zo guteka muffin za mochi, kandi bahangayikishijwe n'icyitegererezo cy'ibiryo bitetse TM gishingiye ku kintu gikunze kugaragara, ifu y'umuceri ikungahaye ku muceri, yahereye ku ya mbere Imico itatu yariho mbere.
“Turi umuryango w’abakunda guteka bo muri Aziya. Dukunda mochi zokeje,” Kat Lieu, washinze ikigo cya Subtle Asian Baking, yagize ati: “Bite se niba umunsi umwe dutinya gukora umugati w’ibitoki cyangwa cookies za miso? Ese tugomba guhora dusubiza amaso inyuma tugatinya guhagarara no guhagarara, cyangwa dushobora gukomeza guhanga udushya no kwisanzura?”
Muffin za Mochi ntabwo zitandukaniye n'inkuru y'umuco wa gatatu. Nyiri sosiyete Sam Butarbutar yatangiye kugurisha muffin ze zo mu bwoko bwa Indoneziya ku maduka ya kawa ya Bay Area mu 2014. Zarakunzwe cyane ku buryo we n'umugabo we Shyu bafunguye imigati i Berkeley mu 2017. Bagiye kwaguka muri Colorado (ahantu habiri ubu harafunze) na Walnut Creek, bafite gahunda yo gufungura inganda ebyiri zo guteka i San Francisco. Benshi mu bandika filime z'ibiribwa bafite resept za muffin za mochi zahumetswe n'umuco wa gatatu.
Mu buryo bwinshi, amafine yahindutse ikimenyetso cy'ikirango cya gatatu cy'umuco: isosiyete ihuriweho n'abantu bose iyobowe n'umugabo n'umugore bo muri Indoneziya na Tayiwani bakora ibiryo biryoshye bahumekewe n'umuco wabo wa gatatu. Ni iy'umuntu ku giti cye: iyi sosiyete yashinzwe na Butarbutar na nyina, batekaga desert, akaba yarahagaritse umubano nyuma yo kujya mu muryango we.
Ku bijyanye n'umuco wa gatatu, muffin za mochi "zirenze ifuru gusa," ibaruwa yabo isanzwe ivuga ngo "Aho ducururiza ni ahantu hahurira umuco n'akaranga kandi bigatera imbere."
Ariko kandi byahindutse ibicuruzwa byifuzwa. Nk’uko Shyu abivuga, Third Culture yagurishaga amafi ya mochi muffins ku masosiyete yashoboraga gukora ubwoko bwayo bwite bw’ibiryo bitetse.
Shyu yagize ati: “Mu ntangiriro, twumvaga tumerewe neza, dufite umutekano kandi dufite umutekano hamwe n’ikirango.” Mu isi y’ibiribwa, iyo ubonye igitekerezo cyiza, ugikoresha kuri interineti. Ariko… nta shimwe.”
Mu iduka rito riri i San Jose, CA Bakehouse igurisha amajana y'imigati ya mochi ku munsi mu buryohe nk'igwava n'imbuto z'ibitoki. Nyir'iyo byokurya byabaye ngombwa ko ahindura izina ry'iyi deseri ku byapa, udutabo no ku rubuga rwa interineti rw'iyi mineke - nubwo iyi resept yari isanzwe ikoreshwa mu rugo kuva Lam akiri ingimbi. Inyandiko zo ku mbuga nkoranyambaga zivuga ko ari uburyohe bwabo ku mugati w'ifu y'umuceri wo muri Vietnam witwa bánh bò. Nyina, wakoze mu nganda ziteka mu gace ka Bay Area mu gihe cy'imyaka irenga 20, yababajwe n'igitekerezo cy'uko isosiyete ishobora gushyira ikimenyetso ku kintu gisanzwe nk'iki, nk'uko yabitangaje.
Umuryango wa Lim usobanukiwe icyifuzo cyo kurinda ibihangano bivugwa ko ari umwimerere. Bavuga ko ari wo mwuga wa mbere w’Abanyamerika ugurisha waffle zo muri Aziya y’Epfo zifite uburyohe bwa pandane muri Le Monde, ikigo cy’ubucuruzi cyahoze ari icy’umuryango i San Jose, cyafunguwe mu 1990. CA Bakehouse yishyira mu mwanya wayo nk' "uwaremye waffle y’icyatsi kibisi y’umwimerere."
“Tumaze imyaka 20 tuyikoresha, ariko ntitwigeze dutekereza kuyishyira ku kimenyetso cy’ubucuruzi kuko ari ijambo risanzwe,” Lam yagize ati.
Kugeza ubu, ikigo kimwe gusa ni cyo gisa nkaho cyagerageje kwamagana iki kimenyetso cy’ubucuruzi. Stella + Mochi yatanze ikirego mu mpera za 2019 cyo gukuraho ikirango cy’ubucuruzi cya mochi muffin cya Third Culture nyuma y’uko imigati ya Bay Area isabye Stella + Mochi yo muri San Diego kureka gukoresha iryo jambo, nk’uko inyandiko zibigaragaza. Bavuga ko iryo jambo ari rusange cyane ku buryo ridashobora kwitwa ikirango cy’ubucuruzi.
Nk’uko inyandiko z’urukiko zibivuga, Third Culture yasubije ikirego cy’ihohoterwa rishingiye ku kimenyetso cy’ubucuruzi ivuga ko gukoresha mochi muffins mu iduka rya San Diego byateje urujijo ku bakiriya kandi bigatera kwangirika "kudasubirwamo" ku izina rya Third Culture. Urubanza rwaciwe mu mezi make.
Abanyamategeko ba Stella + Mochi bavuze ko amasezerano y’ubwumvikane ari ibanga kandi banze kugira icyo bavuga. Nyiri Stella + Mochi yanze kubazwa, avuga ko amasezerano yo kutamenyekanisha.
“Ndatekereza ko abantu bafite ubwoba,” ibi ni ibyatangajwe na Jenny Hartin, umuyobozi ushinzwe itumanaho ku rubuga rushakisha amafunguro yo guteka Eat Your Books. “Ntushaka guteza akaduruvayo.”
Impuguke mu by'amategeko zavuganye na The Chronicle zibajije niba ikirango cya mochi muffin cya Third Culture cyarokoka urubanza rw'urukiko. Umunyamategeko w’umutungo bwite mu by’ubwenge, Robin Gross, utuye i San Francisco, yavuze ko ikirango cyanditse ku gitabo cy’inyongera cy’ibiro by’ubucuruzi bya Amerika bya Patent n’ibirango by’ubucuruzi aho kuba ku gitabo cy’ingenzi, bivuze ko kidakwiye kurindwa byihariye. Ikigo cy’ubucuruzi cya Master Register cyagenewe ibirango by’ubucuruzi bifatwa nk’ibidasanzwe bityo bikitabwaho by’amategeko.
Gross yagize ati: “Mu bitekerezo byanjye, ikirego cya Third Culture Bakery ntikizagerwaho kuko ikirango cyayo cy’ubucuruzi gisobanura gusa kandi ntigishobora guhabwa uburenganzira bwihariye.” Niba amasosiyete atemerewe gukoresha amagambo asobanura mu gusobanura ibicuruzwa byayo, itegeko ry’ikirango rirarenga urugero kandi ribangamira uburenganzira bwo kuvuga icyo umuntu ashaka.”
Gross yagize ati: “Niba ibirango by’ubucuruzi bigaragaza ko “byamenyekanye, bivuze ko ikoreshwa ryabyo ryujuje icyizere mu bwenge bw’umuguzi cy’uko ari byo byonyine bikoresha ijambo ‘mochi muffin’.”
Third Culture yasabye ibirango by'ubucuruzi ku bindi bicuruzwa byinshi ariko ntiyabishoboye, birimo "mochi brownie", "butter mochi donut" na "moffin". Izindi nganda zikora imigati zifite amazina y'ubucuruzi cyangwa ibitekerezo byihariye, nka Cronut izwi cyane mu mujyi wa New York yitwa Dominique Ansel, cyangwa Mochissant muri Rolling Out Cafe, ifu y'ibinyobwa bya mochi croissant igurishwa mu nganda zikora imigati muri San Francisco. Intambara y'ubucuruzi irimo gutegurwa hagati y'isosiyete ikora cocktail muri California n'isosiyete ikora bombo muri Delaware ku burenganzira bwo "gukoresha shokora ishyushye." Third Culture, ikora turmeric matcha latte yigeze kwitwa "Golden Yogi," yahinduriwe izina nyuma yo guhabwa ibaruwa yo guhagarika no guhagarika.
Mu isi aho resept zigezweho zikwirakwira ku mbuga nkoranyambaga, Shyu abona ko ibirango by'ubucuruzi ari ubwenge busanzwe bw'ubucuruzi. Bamaze gushyira ikirango cy'ibicuruzwa bizaza bitaragaragara ku bubiko bw'imigati.
Muri iki gihe, abateka imitsi n'abandika ku mbuga nkoranyambaga z'ibiribwa bagiye bihanangirizana kudashishikariza ubwoko ubwo aribwo bwose bwa mochi desert. (Mochi donuts zikunzwe cyane muri iki gihe ku buryo imbuga nkoranyambaga zuzuyemo imigati mishya myinshi n'amafunguro yo guteka.) Ku rubuga rwa Facebook rwa Subtle Asian Baking, inyandiko zigaragaza andi mazina yo kwirinda gukurikiranwa mu nkiko—mochimuffs, moffins, mochins—— zatumye abantu benshi bavuga byinshi.
Bamwe mu bagize itsinda rya Subtle Asian Baking bababajwe cyane n’ingaruka z’umuco w’iduka ry’imigati, rigaragara ko rifite ikintu kirimo, ifu y’umuceri ikoreshwa mu gukora mochi, ifite imizi ikomeye mu mico myinshi yo muri Aziya. Baganiriye ku kwanga umuco wa gatatu, kandi bamwe basize ibitekerezo bibi ku rubuga rwa Yelp rw’iduka ry’imigati.
“Iyo umuntu ashyira ikimenyetso ku kintu gifite umuco cyangwa gifite akamaro,” nk'umugati wo muri Filipine witwa halo halo, “ntabwo nakwihanganira gukora cyangwa gushyira ahagaragara resept, kandi nababara cyane kuko imaze imyaka myinshi iwanjye,” uyu ni Bianca Fernandez, uyobora blog y'ibiribwa yitwa Bianca i Boston. Aherutse kwihanagura ku mafi ya mochi.
Elena Kadvany is a staff writer for the San Francisco Chronicle.Email: elena.kadvany@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @ekadvany
Elena Kadvany azinjira muri San Francisco Chronicle mu 2021 nk'umunyamakuru w'ibiribwa. Mbere yaho, yari umwanditsi mukuru wa Palo Alto Weekly n'ibindi bitabo bifitanye isano na yo bivuga kuri resitora n'uburezi, anashinga inkingi n'amakuru bya resitora ya Peninsula Foodie.
Igihe cyo kohereza: 30 Nyakanga-2022
